Thrill me...Roja Dove Diaghilev

photo of Carcassonne , France from tongue in cheek

“Roja Dove, it turns out, has been commissioned to create a fragrance to mark the Ballets Russes exhibition ( at the Victiria and Albert Museum ) – but this is much, much more than a souvenir of a show. We think it could go on to become a global fragrance sensation. Fragrance of the year? For us, it could be fragrance of the decade.”

-Josephine Fairley, Beauty Bible Author

“For the ultimate diva drama trust in Roja Dove. His new eau de parfum, Diaghilev, created in a limited edition of 1,000 to celebrate the V&A’s Ballets Russes exhibition is a chypre with a distinctly grand finish: orris, vanilla and vetiver make this one a heady, old-school marvel, not to be worn lightly.”
-Sarah Vine, Beauty Editor, Saturday Times Magazine

“One of the pleasures of working with one of the world’s most prestigious brands is finding others who lead in their respective fields, with whom to collaborate. We have worked with Vivienne Westwood, Betty Jackson and Paul Smith. Roja Dove follows in that tradition.”

-Jo Prosser, MD of V&A Enterprises.

Click HERE to purchase

( portrait of Roja Dove by Micha Theiner )
Roja Dove - the reigning couturier of scent - holds court in the opulent Harrod's Haute Parfumerie . His collection is unrivalled and enviable , his taste impeccable . His flamboyant personality is as entertaining as it is educational : pricey Versace sportshirts accented with a St. Tropez tan , impeccable suits..and a shining boutique in the sky above Harrods Department store ( on the fifth floor ), THE destination for any perfumista . He began creating semi-bespoke scents which he hid in a drawer , saving for the discerning client who just couldn't find " that one perfect scent ". Then he released a trio of over the top scents , Enslaved , Unspoken and Scandal . ( I own Enslaved , a rich vanillic and animalic creature that is VERY reminiscent of vintage Bandit . )

Most recently , he created an homage to the founder of the Ballets Russes, Serge Diagilev, and for the Victoria & Albert’s autumn exhibition Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russe 1909 . Since Diaghilev is said to always have sprayed his curtains with Guerlain’s great chypre Mitsouko, it was decided to create a new, moden chypre .
( One of those wasteful , over the top legends , it reminds me of the legend of Cleopatra , who is said to have soaked the sails of her barge in sandalwood oil , scenting the entire harbor of the Nile . The reason sandalwood is all but extinct today ? )

Anyway I digress .

A modern chypre ? Not in any way is this modern!, This is opulent , rich and beguiling as any vintage chypre , and upon first sniff I thought it smelled EXACTLY like vintage Coty Chypre , 1960's version . I own three distinct versions of Coty Chypre . the earliest , from the 1940's is so animalic it roars , and I almost cannot wear it . The newest version , from the 70's , is mild and delicious and I wear it all the time . My splash bottle of EDP is getting low..but the middle version from the late Fifties or early Sixties ) , lush and floral with the distinctive chypre base I love so much , is the one that is mirrored in Roja's creation Diaghilev . On his blog , Dove himself says it smells of Mitsouko , but not to me . I don't get the peachiness at all .

What I do get is the classic begamot opening , all juiced up with such orange goodness it makes my mouth water . Soon joined by creamy silky roses ( if I really try I can imagine the soft skin of peaches , but just barely...) . There's a touch of the animalic there too , with prominent woody nuances . And then the rich base of patchouli and oakmoss , that which is not to be found in any

" modern " chypre - comes forward and I simply swoon . This is a limited edition of 1000 bottles , and I may never own a full bottle , but I can dream...

notes :
top -bergamot, lemon and orange

heart - rose de mai , jasmine

base - oak moss, orris, patchouli, vanilla and vetiver

You can read a very good article by Roja here .