tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40177033418204310042024-03-05T11:41:18.065-05:00WAFT....what a fragrancefanatic thinkswaftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.comBlogger95125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-42082277976548785222014-10-21T13:26:00.000-04:002014-10-21T13:26:49.845-04:00New Discoveries of old formulations<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Though I have not been blogging regularly , I always search out new things to sniff . Finding creative ways to acquire samples and decants is challenging . My large garden , chickens , ducks , fruit trees , honey bees ( and all the chores that entails ) keep me busy , entertained ( you can't believe how hilarious ducks are...) and satisfied . The pantry shelves are full of garden produce . But going shopping at Barney's in Seattle ? Out of my price range . Lucky me though , I have friends in perfume places and they send me stuff . And I send them stuff .<br />
My favorite fragrances are chypres , and it took me years to figure this out . Years spent smelling everything . But the advent of computers changed everything , access to information unending . I am a chypre girl through and through . When somone sends me a vintage chypre that I have never smelled - well you know the feeling if you are reading perfume blogs . <br />
Some vintage chypres I discovered over the summer just blew me away ! <br />
<strong><u>Cardin de Cardin</u></strong> - the first fragrance from the house of Pierre <b>Cardin</b>, launched in 1976.<br />
<a href="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.10557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.10557.jpg" height="200" width="163" /></a>notes :<br />
top -citrus, aldehydes, bergamot, clove and cumin. <br />
heart - roses, ylang-ylang and jasmine oak
and cedar. <br />
base - amber, civet, musk, labdanum, moss, sandalwood
and vetiver<br />
Thank you Brian Pera for sending me a little of this . It is all gone now , and I am hoping for more...<br />
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<u><strong>Sinan</strong> by <b>Jean-Marc <b>Sinan</b></b></u> - launched in 1984.<br />
notes:<br />
<a href="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/o.14107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/o.14107.jpg" height="200" width="145" /></a>top -
coriander, bergamot, brazilian rosewood, aldehydes and green notes<br />
heart - carnation, iris, jasmine, geranium, ylang-ylang, rose and
lily-of-the-valley<br />
base - vetiver, musk, patchouli, oak moss, amber and
incense. <br />
Another from Brian , searching for more of this .<br />
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<strong><u></u></strong><br />
<strong><u></u></strong><br />
<strong><u>Armani for her</u></strong> by Giorgio Armani( original sometimes called Black ) - launched in 1982. <br />
<a href="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.827.jpg" height="200" width="145" /></a>notes :<br />
top -
aldehydes, pineapple, mint, galbanum, marigold and bergamot; middle notes are
cyclamen, tuberose, orchid, orris root, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose and
narcissus; base notes are sandalwood, tonka bean, amber, musk, benzoin, oakmoss
and cedar. <br />
Melissa sent me a decant , and I loved it so much I swapped for her bottle . This is more oriental than chypre , a heavy hitter that I love to wear to bed , as I can still smell it in the morning . A perfect rainy day scent for fall . Like today , it's raining as it should in the NW . 100% chance of rain for the next 12 hours , 100% chance I will be wearing Armani for her .<br />
<a href="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.3752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.3752.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a><br />
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<strong><u>Azzaro Couture 2008</u></strong> ( re-orchestration of original Azzaro from 1975 )<br />
absolutes of: mimose, May rose, iris, ambrette seed and galbanum . Again , Brian the enabler . I dislike this recreation of the original Azzaro , which I loved - a delicate white bouquet ( see below ) .<br />
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<a href="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.7520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://fimgs.net/images/perfume/nd.7520.jpg" height="200" width="153" /></a><strong>From Fragrantica : Azzaro</strong> by <b><b>Azzaro</b></b> launched in 1975. Top notes are aldehydes,
gardenia and fruity notes; middle notes are orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang and
rose; base notes are amber, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, benzoin and styrax. I have a mini bottle of this which I adore , it is very <br />
feminine and light hearted , I don't get the base notes at all . <br />
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Others scents I will be writing about in the near future -<br />
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Guerlain Chamade , Rosarium Blends Pan # 1 , a limited edition , Bogue Maai , and a new release coming soon from AbdesSallam Attar centered around orris and his most expensive creation to date . Stay tuned !<br />
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waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-82638360871953074522014-10-14T10:55:00.001-04:002014-10-14T10:55:50.817-04:00Providence Perfume Co. Moss Gown<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The joy of fragrance is in it's complexity and mystery - the deciphering , the remembering , the contemplation and finally the wearing . Moss Gown is all of these and more . It is rich and fruity ( not sweet nor bright but dark and decaying fruit ! ) It is woody and mossy and mysterious , complex and deep , earthy rich resinous , intellectual . It was love at first sniff and yet after I got to know her , I did not love her for awhile . The cedar was too much , and I was upset that the boronia and coffee flower was overshadowed by the regal cedar . ( I consider cedar sacred . It is strong and assertive enough to take over a fragrance . ) After experimenting a little , I decanted some from my bottle and find that dabbing rather than spraying shows off the floralcy and suppresses the pronounced cedar a little .<br />
The notes in this fragrance are rare and expensive . Coffee flower is one of the richest , fruitiest essences I have ever smelled , and here it is just luscious ! Boronia too is lush and fruity and together they are decadent and dark . Lifting this pair into the sun is a dusty dry sunflower and a moist young chamomile . Dark and light play like a lilting melody , trees swaying creating dappled sun and shade .<br />
Yet it never strays too far from the earth , as moss IS earth , moist and dark and green and tranquil . Reclining on a soft bed of moss to sleep , to dream , this is perfume and all it was meant to be .<br />
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Top notes are sunflower, mimosa, cedar and chamomile; middle notes are boronia,
rose, coffee blossom, narcissus, lilac and violet leaf; base notes are
cedarmoss, sandalwood and white cedar extract. <br />
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waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-56575399054599806982014-10-11T09:35:00.001-04:002014-10-12T08:48:00.506-04:00Rosarium Blends The Rosarium - THE ROSE !!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Alchemical Concoctions to Enliven the Senses</div>
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Catamara contacted me a few weeks ago , asking if I would like samples of some of her creations . Though I had never heard of her , of course I jumped at the chance to smell some independent creations . <br />
From the website "Rosarium Blends makes their own ritual incense blends, essential oil blends, and natural perfumes using the finest herbs, woods, resins and essential oils. All formulations are original recipes and the result of extensive historical research, practical experimentation and magical studies.<br />
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Each incense, oil, and perfume is blended and charged during specific lunar phases, astrological transits, and correspondences. Thus formulated with intention to enhance the charm’s potency, enliven the senses, and increase the heightened awareness they are designed to awaken. "<br />
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OK , yes , please...and she did not disappoint ! I was smitten with four samples , but my favorite of all is this rose , The Rosarium . <br />
This is the rose you found in the garden , and plucked at it's zenith in the early sunshine , fresh and just barely dripping with dew . You carried it with you as you wandered and the sun warmed your back . You seek out the shade of a large tree , and lie down in the cool grass to press the blossom to your nose , and dream .<br />
Notes given are two - rose and styrax . This creation speaks to me in whispers , makes me happy , yet contemplative , yearning for more . I know there is more - Resins , grasses , herbs . The rose is here is so realistic , fresh and dewy - silky without being metallic , slightly sweet without being jammy , full blown with a background of stems and leaves , a hay like softness of grass under your feet . Perfection !<br />
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waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-24697490057220319402014-10-10T07:00:00.000-04:002014-10-10T12:10:26.685-04:00Ask AbdesSalaam Day 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Thank you for the lively and wonderful conversation yesterday !</div>
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If you didn't get a chance to ask your question , AbdesSalaam is with us again today and ready to answer .</div>
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Good Day AbdesSalaam and welcome back !</div>
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I got so many e-mails thanking you for answering our questions yesterday .</div>
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We left off our discussion with olfactory psychology . I have a serious aversion to vetiver , and though I do not know the reason , is it possible to " de-sensitize " , that is reprogram a response to certain aromas ? ( similar to behavior modification )</div>
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waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com56tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-10075896296771190672014-10-10T06:00:00.000-04:002014-10-10T12:09:27.809-04:00Ask AbdesSalaamAttar - La Via del Profumo<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Good Morning Everybody ! This is an interview/Q & A session I had with D. Dubrana of La Via Del Profumo in 2010 . I am reprinting it here today for his benefit . </div>
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The day has arrived , the appointed hour is here . Dominique Dubrana aka AbdesSalaamAttar is here with us and waiting to answer your questions !! </div>
Good Day AbdesSalaam and Welcome to WAFT . I am beginning to understand the role aromatherapy/healing/psychology plays in your creations and I know our readers would love to hear more about the process of creating personalized fragrances . But first , maybe just a little background or history . <br />
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Can you remember the first fragrance you ever created , and why ?</div>
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( Remember readers : refresh your page frequently to keep up with the comments )</div>
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waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com139tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-60469007429061084662014-04-15T12:38:00.001-04:002014-04-15T12:38:36.914-04:00Vero Kern ROZY<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I am so so so looking forward to this one . You will be the first to know when I get my little decant . </div>
waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-30831213354440850792011-10-27T07:17:00.000-04:002011-10-27T07:17:35.131-04:00Names I Can't Remember.....<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://mygermantravels.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Long-Names_opt-300x225.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" ida="true" src="http://mygermantravels.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Long-Names_opt-300x225.jpg" /></a></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><br />
</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Is there a limit to the length of perfume names ?</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Obviously not . </div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Why doesn't someone name a new release Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateapokaiwhenuakitanatahu ?</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">Wikipedia cites this as the longest place name on Earth . It means hill in Maori .</div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">So be it .</div>An even longer version, Taumata-whakatangihanga-koauau-o-Tamatea-haumai-tawhiti-ure-haea-turi-pukaka-piki-maunga-horo-nuku-pokai-whenua-ki-tana-tahu, has 105 letters and means <i>The hill of the flute playing by Tamatea — who was blown hither from afar, had a slit penis, grazed his knees climbing mountains, fell on the earth, and encircled the land — to his beloved .</i><br />
<em>ho-kay then .</em><br />
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Long Fragrance names , write these down...<br />
A Lab on Fire L'Anonyme ou OP-1475-A<br />
Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio for Men Acqua for Life Edition<br />
Lolita Lempicka Midnight Couture Black Eau de Minuit <br />
Shiseido Majolica Majorca Majoromantica<br />
Van Cleef & Arpels Precious Oud No. 04855AM<br />
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Thierry Mugler has released a limited edition collection<em> </em>and the names are quite long , although not THAT long , in comparison .<br />
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Collection Le Goût du Parfum: <br />
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Angel Eau de Parfum sublimée de Poudre de Cacao Amer <br />
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Alien Eau de Parfum sublimée de Caramel au Beurre Salé<br />
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Womanity Eau de Parfum sublimée de Chutney de Figues<br />
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A Men Eau de Parfum sublimée d'un Concentré de Piments Rouges<br />
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Got it ?<br />
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I respect Octavian over at 1000Fragrances , and if he raves about a fragrance - I SMELL IT , and he raves about the new Angel Eau de Parfum sublimée de Poudre de Cacao Amer . So I am on a mission to get ahold of some , I love good chocolate and have always wished to find a creamy , milky , gourmand chocolate scent that works . I'll keep you posted .<br />
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</div>Any fragrance names that you can't remember ?</div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-24268922637984320362011-10-14T07:30:00.000-04:002011-10-14T07:36:36.080-04:00Aftelier Pink Lotus<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div id="ms__id12"><span style="color: #ff9966;"></span><span style="color: #cc0000;">UPDATE : The gorgeous aged sandalwood in this is so profound , I have been spoiled forever....earthy , chewy , yet sweet and smooth . Heartbreaking !!</span><br />
<span style="color: #cc0000;">This is a reprint from 2009 , but since I am giving away a mini bottle I wanted to include this short review . Pink Lotus has been discontinued , but I have 2 bottles for myself and joyfully want to share a little of what Mandy sent me !</span><br />
</div><div id="ms__id10"></div><div id="ms__id11"><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidiU_Y_prW7fmj4A8KfN84qA0HszlXbDJyK5h7EZ37QX7noo2yMkJPqkPrqID5uUPeReh01k6qjQ-nRwC29iLcaVsFBKmmp_PGSTgnjmOcpCQNEorDPRPTsaNeTQZ93joxe_efSXUnwhY/s1600-h/Picture+288.jpg" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5337903188904231234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidiU_Y_prW7fmj4A8KfN84qA0HszlXbDJyK5h7EZ37QX7noo2yMkJPqkPrqID5uUPeReh01k6qjQ-nRwC29iLcaVsFBKmmp_PGSTgnjmOcpCQNEorDPRPTsaNeTQZ93joxe_efSXUnwhY/s200/Picture+288.jpg" style="float: left; height: 200px; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 150px;" /></a><span style="color: #ff9966;">There is a stillness on the edge of morning that is profound . It is not light , and yet it is not dark .</span></div><div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;"><span style="color: #ff9966;">A ray of light splits the dawn and up from out of the stillness , and the mud , an unopened bud breaks the water's indigo surface....the earth is ripe and dirty . It cares not if you approve . </span></div></div><div id="ms__id165"><div id="ms__id17"><div id="ms__id13"><div id="ms__id11"><span style="color: #ff9966;">Slowly , the stem rises , unfurling its delicate pink petals to the sun....smiling a sweet serene smile . Graceful , translucent , with a little bit of mud on her skirt .</span></div><div id="ms__id13"><span style="color: #cc0000; font-size: 78%;"><em>photo: my sandalwood bead mala</em></span><br />
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<em><span style="color: #cc0000;">notes :</span></em><br />
<em><span style="color: #cc0000;">pink lotus , aged sandalwood </span></em><br />
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<em><span style="color: #cc0000;">I have heard originally this was a custom scent made for Madonna . </span></em></div></div></div></div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-82826986828064804922011-08-26T06:32:00.003-04:002014-09-08T09:30:16.489-04:00Jean Desses Celui parfum - " the one... "<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Created in 1938 , Celui is long discontinued . This gorgeous fragrance is classified as a feminine leather chypre , and is available at auction sites online in EDC and pure parfum . My sample was sent by a swapper friend - I actually didn't want to open it - and fall in love...</div>
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But I did .</div>
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<a href="http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqMOKjUE3qGC0(t9BOCy8LRwV!~~1_3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://i.ebayimg.com/00/$(KGrHqMOKjUE3qGC0(t9BOCy8LRwV!~~1_3.JPG" height="193" qaa="true" width="200" /></a>They don't make them like this anymore .</div>
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The topnotes may have degraded a little , this has a whiff of celery - green at first . As it dissipates , the rich and heady floral heart is melancholy , nuanced , creamy , not too sweet ...in a word : beautiful !</div>
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Slowly the restrained yet animalic basenotes reveal themselves - softened and rounded by heliotrope . There is no overdose here , everything is balanced , chic , sexy and real . </div>
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notes -aldehydes , jasmine , rose , gardenia , iris, violet ,heliotrope , civet , ambergris</div>
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image of 1/8 oz flacon of pure parfum from eb*y</div>
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waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-12655055321988204942010-12-18T06:04:00.003-05:002010-12-18T06:04:00.393-05:00Aftelier Parfum de Maroc<div id="ms__id43"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/4451008311_32ceb1519b.jpg"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff6600;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 308px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 216px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2732/4451008311_32ceb1519b.jpg" /></span></a><span style="font-size:78%;color:#ff6600;"> image from flikr<br /></span><div id="ms__id38"><span style="color:#ff6600;">One of the wonderful treasures I bought during Sniffa Fall Ball was a 4 ml mini of Mandy's creation Parfum de Maroc . To tell the truth , I really wanted Leather , but Bendels was sold out of it . Since I am striving to collect all of her fragrances and they did not have Candide , I </span><span style="color:#ff6600;">" settled " for Maroc , and lucky me !</span></div><br /><div id="ms__id39"><span style="color:#ff6600;">Spicy deliciousness unfolds when I apply Parfum de Maroc on skin . Rose ? Not at all - it is simply the pillow upon which all of this wonderfulness rests , not a star player . The quintessence of what a gourmand should be , not sweet but tangy , piquant , complex . There is just enough black pepper to balance the galangal and just enough saffron to balance the yummy cardamom . Ah Mandy , your genious shines again , and I want a bottle of EDP . </span></div><div id="ms__id45"><span style="color:#ff6600;">Santa are you listening ? I was a very good girl....</span></div><br /><div id="ms__id42"><span style="color:#ff6600;"></span></div><div id="ms__id40"><span style="color:#ff6600;">notes - Turkish rose, , saffron , galangal, nutmeg , black pepper, bitter orange , cardamom , myrrh</span></div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-74173092082674591802010-12-12T06:40:00.004-05:002010-12-12T06:56:35.121-05:00Dawn Spencer Hurwitz December<a href="http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSY3dAwDCq7kurAcy2kOmjt9Mbr2gM2o8Qe1prdaxFIX7NvBdJtZQ"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 194px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 259px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSY3dAwDCq7kurAcy2kOmjt9Mbr2gM2o8Qe1prdaxFIX7NvBdJtZQ" /></a> In our recent e-mail conversations , I told Dawn that I have probably reviewed more of her fragrances than any other perfumer . I also told her I am her stalker ! Thank goodness she has a sense of humor , she took it as the complement it was meant to be . LOL.<br /><br /><div id="ms__id188">Upon first sniff of her newest Holiday creation , December , I felt she had created December just for me !! She didn't of course . But she did send me a sample and OMG , it is the Holiday season all wrapped up and bottled . </div><br /><br /><div id="ms__id189">Fresh and resin-y , a little gourmand , Christmas trees and cookies....</div><div id="ms__id221"><br /></div><div id="ms__id191"></div><div id="ms__id222">A candle scented with this ? WOULD BE KILLAH !</div><div id="ms__id223"><br /> </div><div id="ms__id192">From Dawn's website -</div><div id="ms__id224"><br /></div><div id="ms__id190">Top notes: <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=90">Clove Bud</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=103">Galbanum</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=363">Ginger</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=220">Spice Notes</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=120">Sweet Orange</a>Middle notes: <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=60">Balsam Fir</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=131">Bulgarian Rose Absolute</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=227">Fir Needle</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=481">Pinecone (accord)</a>Base notes: <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=79">Atlas Cedarwood</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=178">Frankincense (Olibanum)</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=331">Myrrh Gum</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=62">Tolu Balsam</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=189">Treemoss</a>, <a class="notes" href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/notes_description_eo.asp?page=16&scent=1005&noteid=341">Vanilla Absolute</a> </div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-84205067186700398602010-10-31T05:00:00.000-04:002010-10-31T05:14:53.326-04:00Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Halloween<div id="ms__id8"><a href="http://www.insidesocal.com/bargain/PumpkinTooMuchTimeOnYourHands.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 295px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 287px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.insidesocal.com/bargain/PumpkinTooMuchTimeOnYourHands.jpg" /></a> I recieved a sample of <a href="https://www.dshperfumes.com/search_result_related.asp?txtProduct=Halloween">Halloween</a> from Dawn in our gift bag on Sunday at Barolo Restaurant . Citrus and licorice make a nice contrast in the opening , the heart is gourmand and sweet with some extra spice and a touch of pumpkin , just lovely !! <div id="ms__id9"> It is rich and warm , satisfying as a favorite slice of pie , with none of the calories !</div><div id="ms__id7"> </div><div id="ms__id9">Notes :</div><div id="ms__id8">Top - bergamot , blood orange , licorice</div><div id="ms__id10">Heart - carnation , pumpkin , spice</div><div id="ms__id11">Base - Moss</div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-59805620909199230572010-09-27T05:46:00.001-04:002010-09-27T05:48:11.693-04:00La Via del Profumo Mecca Balsam<div id="ms__id157"><a href="http://www.profumo.it/bottiglie_profumo/Balsamo-della-Mecca1-med.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 254px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 194px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.profumo.it/bottiglie_profumo/Balsamo-della-Mecca1-med.jpg" /></a><br /><div id="ms__id31"><span style="color:#ff0000;">Tomorrow our special guest AbdesSalaam Attar , </span><span style="color:#993300;">natural perfumer/composer from <a href="http://www.profumo.it/">La Via del Profumo</a> </span></div><div id="ms__id32"><span style="color:#993300;">will be here to answer your questions . He has offered three bottles of Balsamo della Mecca for give-away and I thought you might like to re-read this post from last January .</span></div><br /><div id="ms__id34"><span style="color:#ff0000;">1/31/10</span></div><br /><div id="ms__id24"><a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/galleries/hajj/images/1.jpg"><span style="color:#ff0000;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 288px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 208px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.bbc.co.uk/religion/galleries/hajj/images/1.jpg" /></span></a><br /><div id="ms__id23"><span style="color:#993300;">An exciting envelope arrived in the mail yesterday , with beautiful stamps on it and an Italian postmark....Mecca Balsam nestled inside a beautiful shimmery gold box...and a 16 ml sample bottle !! OMG...squeee !!!!</span></div><div id="ms__id33"><span style="color:#993300;">Labdanum is one of my favorite notes in perfumery . In the winter I crave it . Last year , my go to scent was Donna Karan Labdanum . This year I discovered DSH Vintage Patchouly ( not just patchouli , but resinous and powdery and YUM )....now Mecca Balsam crowds it's way to the top of my HG list with it's opening note of leathery labdanum . I tore open the package and sprayed and swooned . So did the Captain !!</span></div><div id="ms__id39"><span style="color:#993300;">The rich luscious labdanum is supported by tobacco and damascene rose , a touch of tuberose adds softeness and balance , though hardly discernable, enriched by sacred frankincense . </span></div><div id="ms__id29"><span style="color:#993300;">The tobacco is the star of the show to my nose , and I only wish there were more labdanum . The warmth and thrum of oud is mild , but over 12 hours later<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1xgvvqI3BGGGDWNTCrFBlDaQA-CPVGvL7R-_rCnv94-ojgLTq11e2BLRem4WNh2HVs9BZ2c_ttqybdyLDpDIiMck98w0LQywMqNjShDr1DBkZWnTc_kp-HlOM7m4gFz5mNWBao0AO2I/s1600-h/Balsamo-della-Mecca4.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 283px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 219px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5428846551965600754" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG1xgvvqI3BGGGDWNTCrFBlDaQA-CPVGvL7R-_rCnv94-ojgLTq11e2BLRem4WNh2HVs9BZ2c_ttqybdyLDpDIiMck98w0LQywMqNjShDr1DBkZWnTc_kp-HlOM7m4gFz5mNWBao0AO2I/s200/Balsamo-della-Mecca4.jpg" /></a> when I jump in the shower , suddenly the oud jumps out , aromatic and animalic , what a surprise !!</span></div><div id="ms__id30"><span style="color:#993300;">This is beautiful , rich , deep and dark . Imagine the throngs of worshippers on their pilgrimage to Mecca . The spirit of seeking palpable in the air around you . There is nothing timid about this scent , the heat of thousands of seekers moving in unison to reach the goal of enlightenment and spiritual nourishment . Mecca Balsam is the scent of yearning , striving for the unattainable....</span></div><br /><br /><div id="ms__id36"><span style="color:#993300;">I am so thrilled to have my little bottle ! The most special thing about Mecca Balsam ? It is certified 100% natural !!</span></div><br /><div id="ms__id38"><span style="color:#ff0000;">Tomorrow , beginning at 6:00 AM EST our fun begins . Don't miss it !!</span></div></div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-50882633153362611372010-09-25T09:04:00.000-04:002010-09-25T10:24:09.526-04:00Ask AbdesSalaamAttar - September 28<div id="ms__id7"><span style="color:#993300;">Have you ever wanted the opportunity to ask questions and learn from a perfumer ?</span></div><div id="ms__id10"><span style="color:#993300;">Many of you have experienced the fragrances of </span><a href="http://www.profumo.it/"><span style="color:#009900;">La Via del Profumo </span></a><span style="color:#993300;">by AbdesSalaamAttar . Last winter , he released Balsamo della Mecca ( Mecca Balsam ) . I am happy to announce that AbdesSalaam , natural perfumer/composer - will be joining us here at WAFT to answer your questions !</span></div><div id="ms__id8"><span style="color:#993300;"><strong><em>Beginning at 6:00 AM EST Tuesday September 28 , AbdesSalaam will be live online with me to talk to us</em></strong> about his ethereal , mystical , beautiful scented creations . </span></div><div id="ms__id15"><span style="color:#993300;">I am most excited to talk about his Olfactory Psychology methods !!</span></div><div id="ms__id9"><span style="color:#993300;">Write down your questions and join us online Tuesday for discussion , answers , surprises , give-aways and more ! </span></div><div id="ms__id110"><span style="color:#993300;">You might also enjoy reading the article about AbdesSalaam in the New York Times <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/22/t-magazine/22face-scent-t.html?_r=1&scp=1&sq=AbdesSalaamAttar&st=cse"><span style="color:#009900;">here</span></a></span><span style="color:#009900;"> .</span></div><div id="ms__id111"></div><div id="ms__id14"><span style="color:#993300;"></span></div><div id="ms__id11"></div><div id="ms__id12"><span style="color:#993300;"><strong><span style="color:#006600;">SAVE THE DATE</span></strong> </span></div><div id="ms__id13"><span style="color:#993300;">Tuesday September 28</span> </div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-84722256838786561722010-09-24T06:55:00.003-04:002010-09-24T06:59:19.218-04:00La Via del Profumo Tasnim ( Tasneem )<div id="ms__id8"><a href="http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:dWExXyhV4cWMrM:http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xPqWLnySftA/RuGC_7Pb7AI/AAAAAAAAASc/WCEEJx5Dq-g/s400/ylang+1.JPG&t=1"><span style="font-size:78%;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 205px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 246px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:dWExXyhV4cWMrM:http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_xPqWLnySftA/RuGC_7Pb7AI/AAAAAAAAASc/WCEEJx5Dq-g/s400/ylang+1.JPG&t=1" /></span></a><span style="font-size:78%;"> original watercoloror by Priya </span></div><p><span style="color:#009900;">Tasnim at first seems deceptively simple , strong and sweet . Ylang-ylang fills the aura with it's narcotic , laid back attitude and says </span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">" Don't worry , be happy . "</span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">A cool , minty breeze blows the ylang-ylang vines and the blossoms nod their heads , all is well.....</span><span style="color:#009900;">Ylang - ylang is fruity , creamy , tenacious . The penetrating aroma can fill the room with a scent like pineapple pudding . To my nose it is overpowering , almost makes me anosmic , like there's not enough space in the room for both of us ! But that's not all there is : a beautiful jasmine joins in with it's assertive almost rubbery indoles along with spicy green nuances and a caramelized tonka/vanilla . But this is not tooth achingly sweet , nor is it gourmand . </span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">Another beautifully balanced , thoughtful composition . How does AbdesSalaam do that ?</span></p><p><span style="color:#009900;">When this settles , it hums along for at least 8 hours , persistent yet gentle . </span></p><div id="ms__id10"><span style="color:#009900;"></span> </div><div id="ms__id11"><span style="color:#009900;">notes :</span></div><div id="ms__id12"><span style="color:#009900;"> clary sage , cypress , ylang-ylang , jasmine , tonka bean , vanilla</span></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-53404335611874437552010-09-23T06:00:00.000-04:002010-09-23T06:55:07.083-04:00La Via del Profumo Gipsy Queen<div id="ms__id32"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-Kkac_Xt79JbKjRwpvzb8vDHojquvesEpTdq8IVpzVKxNsgOK9qXDPndiKDoJH7-RomdT86Q-_-eZ02YIs7NX_ax0BGd3aEaHwC4J8AZ9QpaFYjI2i5eWRh33GHIp3P_CmvjXAbu8P0/s320/romany_costume3.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 205px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 306px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiW-Kkac_Xt79JbKjRwpvzb8vDHojquvesEpTdq8IVpzVKxNsgOK9qXDPndiKDoJH7-RomdT86Q-_-eZ02YIs7NX_ax0BGd3aEaHwC4J8AZ9QpaFYjI2i5eWRh33GHIp3P_CmvjXAbu8P0/s320/romany_costume3.jpg" /></a> "I don't like you , but I love you...."<br /><br /><div id="ms__id29"><a href="http://www.profumo.it/perfume/prodotto.asp?pid=2959">Gipsy Queen</a> has a hold on me and she won't let go . </div><div id="ms__id34">This was not love at first sniff . This was a stealth effect , a coup of sorts . Every sniff , interesting . Every note in place . Sweet , savory , sharp , smooth , restrained . </div><br /><div id="ms__id33"></div>Perfectly balanced , no one note stands above the rest , just a colorful swirl full of tenderness , passion , regret . A rose trampled by careless passerby , a teardrop , a dark room , cold and stark - but one look out the window and the view is so beautiful , you will cry .<br /><div id="ms__id30">notes :</div><div id="ms__id31">Lavender , Rose , Tuberose , styrax , patchouli , civet</div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-36221328805984298262010-09-22T06:55:00.000-04:002010-09-22T06:59:41.536-04:00La Via del Profumo Holy Water<div id="ms__id24"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#cc33cc;">image from inshallah stained glass</span><a href="http://inshalahstainedglass.com/USERIMAGES/RainDrop(1).jpg"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#cc33cc;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 247px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 280px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://inshalahstainedglass.com/USERIMAGES/RainDrop(1).jpg" /></span></a><span style="color:#cc33cc;"><br /></span><div id="ms__id23"> </div><div id="ms__id25"><span style="color:#000099;">Simplexity is a word used by AbdesSalaam to describe some of his scents and I too would use the word -</span></div><div id="ms__id26"><span style="color:#000099;"><a href="http://www.profumo.it/scents-of-the-soul/Holy-water/pid/106/"><span style="color:#6600cc;">Holy Water</span> </a>, for instance . Ethereal , damp , cool , yet in no way aquatic , Holy Water is dominated by frankincense to my nose . It lasted for hours , like wisps of mist following me as I went about my day . </span></div><div id="ms__id30"><span style="color:#000099;">Opening on a lush round neroli , amazing how it amps up the fruity nuances in the incense . There is an odd dirtiness to this that fascinates and keeps me sniffing . Once the neroli settles , there is a tug-of-war between the good ( innocent orange blossom ) and the evil ( dark dirty frankincense ) and I'm not sure who wins..... </span></div><div id="ms__id28"><span style="color:#000099;"></span> </div><div id="ms__id27"><span style="color:#000099;">notes :</span></div><div id="ms__id29"><span style="color:#000099;">neroli , orange blossom , rose , sandalwood , frankincense</span></div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-75546850310814867212010-09-21T06:04:00.005-04:002010-09-21T06:28:22.632-04:00La Via del Profumo Rose des Bois<div id="ms__id79"><a href="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3213/2834467436_466e623cfd.jpg?v=0"><span style="color:#ff6666;"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 261px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 235px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3213/2834467436_466e623cfd.jpg?v=0" /></span></a><span style="color:#ff6666;"> "Make me something that smells beautiful...."<br /></span><div id="ms__id74"></div><br /><div id="ms__id75"><span style="color:#ff6666;">People come to AbdesSalaam and this is what they say . And we all benefit , because that is what he does . AbdesSalaam creates something beautiful and presents it to the world , for our benefit and enjoyment . Thank you AbdesSalaam !</span></div><br /><div id="ms__id76"><span style="color:#ff6666;"></span></div><div id="ms__id77"><span style="color:#ff6666;">Rose des Bois was created for </span><a href="http://lefablier.com/"><span style="color:#009900;">Le Fablier</span></a><span style="color:#ff6666;"> as a gift for their clients . These dewy rose petals have been preserved for all time in a dark wooden box ...sprinkled with cinnamon and spice , kept secret and hidden until just the right moment . Open the box and reveal this beauty to the light !</span></div><div id="ms__id6"><span style="color:#ff6666;"></span></div><div id="ms__id7"><span style="color:#ff6666;">In this context , this is the most beautiful guaiac note I have ever smelled , rich , dark and bittersweet . The vanillic drydown is somewhat sweeter and very smooth .</span></div><div id="ms__id21"><span style="color:#ff6666;"></span></div><div id="ms__id20"><span style="color:#006600;">Remember , one week from today Sept 28 , AbdesSalaamAttar will be joining us to answer your questions live ! We will be giving away three bottles of his newest creation , Balsamo della Mecca . Save the date !</span></div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-48062173803142478222010-09-13T11:53:00.001-04:002010-09-14T06:58:16.967-04:00Dupetit - Natural Organic Perfumes<div id="ms__id37">Spending the last few days with Dupetit's samples....there is a clear favorite . And some , I don't care for . </div><br /><div id="ms__id8">*Full disclaimer - Dupetit sent me all these samples !*</div><div id="ms__id8"> </div><div id="ms__id7"> The packaging is simple , and it reads </div><div id="ms__id32">" Since 1989 Dupetit has been devoted to the creation of 100% natural , vegan and '<strong><em>Agreco - certified</em></strong> ' organic perfumes . " </div><div id="ms__id33">For more information , go to the website :<br /><a href="http://www.bioscent.info/"><span style="color:#009900;">www.bioscent.info</span></a> </div><div id="ms__id34">plus watch for my interview with him later this week ...</div><br /><div id="ms__id61"></div><div id="ms__id35">Samples with names like Foin Coupe , Eau de Dupetit , Indiene , an unexpected Vanilla , a Chypre , Fougere , White Lily and Magnolia : there is a favorite here for everyone . </div><div id="ms__id36">Let's start with <span style="color:#3366ff;">White Lily</span>....my expectations are low , ( I really don't want to be disappointed , after loving the Musk NR 5 so much ! )...remember I immediately wanted to buy a full bottle of the Musk NR 5 !! </div><div id="ms__id39">Anyway , usually lily is too shrill on my skin . Dupetit White Lily is a brilliant white yet complex thing that leaps from the vial- buttery , creamy , full of exuberance and fun . Really pretty ! </div><div id="ms__id62">I will have more to say about this one .</div><div id="ms__id38">notes :</div><div id="ms__id41">clove blossoms , ylang , tagetes , tonka , Tuberose , Ceylon muskat , Iris , Jasmine</div><br /><br /><div id="ms__id42">Next , <span style="color:#006600;">Vetiver</span> , which I approached with even more trepidation....you know my intolerance for vetiver . This is citrus-y lemony vetiver , which gets a little woodier , and not harsh . </div><div id="ms__id45">notes :</div><div id="ms__id43">agrumen , lemon , orange blossom , ylang , spices , vetiver , Jasmine , Iris </div><br /><div id="ms__id47">Last up for today , Foin Coupe , which is a lovely name isn't it and what does it mean ? Translated from French as new mown hay ( I should have known that...) Foin Coupe is green and juicy and sunny .</div><div id="ms__id9">notes :</div><div id="ms__id10">acacia , Rose , tonka absolute , galbanum , lavender , spices , Jasmine , Patchouli</div><div id="ms__id11"> </div><div id="ms__id12">We have not met , but Alfredo Dupetit - Bernardi has been answering my questions via-email , so I feel like I'm getting to know him . Though his English is charming and excellent , he asked me to 'fix it a little ", otherwise the answers are his , the questions are mine . Stay tuned this week for our discussion , more reviews ( can you guess my favorite ? ) and another giveaway of Musk NR 5 .</div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-31532293864336157332010-08-27T05:56:00.000-04:002010-08-27T06:01:42.558-04:00Perfumer's Palette - Tabacco<div id="ms__id24"><a href="http://www.biolandes.com/photo-produit/ph-maroc-tabac-biolandes-1233934687.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 295px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.biolandes.com/photo-produit/ph-maroc-tabac-biolandes-1233934687.jpg" /></a> <span style="font-size:78%;">image from biolandes.com</span><br /><div id="ms__id9">The fragrance of tabacco brings back memories , good or bad , to almost all of us . Old leather jackets , redolent with it's rich , fruity , hay-like nuances , smoky libraries , pungent with years of brandy and cigars...most of us had relatives who smoked . My Dad smoked for many years , a cigarette in every ash tray . But he quit years ago and good for him ! He's 80 years old now and quite healthy , my memories are not so tied with the scent of tobacco . </div><div id="ms__id11">But love it I do , though I can't stand to be around burning tobacco . The scent of tobacco absolute is a whole different thing ! Odori Tabacco is a rich , sweet , intoxicating thing that taught me to love the scent of tobacco absolute .</div><div id="ms__id8"><br />Used for thousands of years by Native Americans spiritually and in ritual smoked in the peace pipe , Nicotiana originated in South America . It contains the chemical nicotine , a toxic alkaloid( the most addicitve substance known to science ) anabasine and glucosides .</div><div id="ms__id9">Though no longer widely used medically because of it's highly addictive narcotic effect ,, tobacco is a comforting relaxant , , sedative , antispasmodic and expectorant .<br /></div><div id="ms__id13"></div><div id="ms__id12">Nicotiana tabacum is distilled and solvent extracted in order to obtain tobacco absolute . One can find it sourced from Morocco , Bulgaria , Virginia . It's distinctive fruity , hay-like aroma is used as a base note and is delicious with patchouli and labdanum ! It is very dark in color , adds dry nuances to perfumes , and helps to balance the rich sweetness of many florals .</div><div id="ms__id14"><br />What memories does tobacco elicit for you ? Do you like to wear tobacco fragrances , which ones ?</div><div id="ms__id13"></div><div id="ms__id11">Odori Tabacco</div><div id="ms__id16">Santa Maria Novella Tabacco Toscana</div><div id="ms__id15">Caron Tabac Blond<br /></div><div id="ms__id14">Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac</div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-90937393613683988492010-08-25T06:36:00.007-04:002010-08-25T09:53:58.902-04:00Perfumer's Palette - Poplar Bud<div id="ms__id32">I have a new fascination .</div><div id="ms__id33"><br />One thing leads to another , as we all know , and learning to recognize a new fragrance note is like getting a new badge in girl scouts ( I was never a girl scout , but still....) . I recieved a sample set of Gobin-Daude fragrances ( thanks to Kathryn ) and the first one I sniffed - Seve Exquise - bowled me right over . I mean eat my arm and cry....</div><div id="ms__id13">During our e-mail exchanges , Kathryn mentioned it was her favorite too , that it reminded her of the Poplar Trees in her Grandparents yard . What else to do but go investigate the note listed in Seve Exquise - poplar bud . </div><div id="ms__id14">Yesterday , I was e-mailing Wendy back and forth and we ended up talking about Le Galion fragrances . Which ones she has , which ones I have....you know how one thing leads to another...</div>After our "talk" I went and kneeled before my Le Galion parfums ( LOL ) , my favorite being Bourrasque . so I applied some to my wrists and inhaled deeply . Ahhhh , the thick , fruity-woody goodness stays close to skin so I sat very still in my reverie .<br /><div id="ms__id16">Life gets in the way of these kinds of strenuous persuits , so I went about the house doing my thing . Sometime later I sniffed my hands and there was the beautiful aroma of poplar buds . Wait a second . Wha-......t ?</div><div id="ms__id17">I haven't put on Seve Exquise today...it was Bourrasque . Is there poplar bud in the drydown of Bourrasque ? I applied more at bedtime . This morning ? Poplar bud discretely charmingly resinous on my wrists . I'm so pleased !</div><div id="ms__id51"><a href="http://www.aromaticsinternational.com/img/oilthumbs/oils_pop.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 200px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 200px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.aromaticsinternational.com/img/oilthumbs/oils_pop.jpg" /></a>And it is my new fascination to find fragrances containing poplar bud ( until we can convince Victoire Gobin-Daude to go back into production.....)</div><div id="ms__id52"><br />Populus balsamifera , Balsam poplar tree , yeilds and oleoresin from the flower buds in late winter/ spring which is steam distilled for the essential oil . Long used by Native Americans and early trappers for it's healing , anti-bacterial , anti-spasmotic properties and for bruises , sore muscles , and skin problems , balsam poplar also has a deeply nourishing and uniquely relaxing effect , is great for wounds and scars .</div><div id="ms__id44">Known by many names , poplar buds are also known as balm of Gilead , or Mecca Balsam .</div><div id="ms__id42">Only smelling the variety of poplar essential oils will tell the true story , but the genus-species name Populus balsamifera is supposedly the true balsam/balm of Gilead . Possesing a fresh , green yet resinous , sweet-woody aroma , the buds contain large amounts of sticky red sap when harvested fresh in the early spring .</div><div id="ms__id47">Chemical constituents :</div><div id="ms__id48">Salicylic acids and sequesterpenes : b-and y-curcumene , cadinene , a-muurolene , amorphene , trans alpha bergamotene </div><div id="ms__id49">monoterpenes ( a-pinene , d-limonene )</div><div id="ms__id50">sequesterpinols a-bisabolol , B-eudesmol , nerolidol</div>and oxides<br /><div id="ms__id41"><br /></div><div id="ms__id18"><span style="color:#993300;"></span></div><div id="ms__id46"><span style="color:#993300;">" Matter is most spirtual in the perfume of the plant..."</span></div><div id="ms__id45"><span style="color:#993300;">-Rudolph Steiner</span> </div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-53207041219328913452010-08-23T00:37:00.003-04:002010-08-23T04:05:52.349-04:00Perfumer's Palette - Ambergris<div id="ms__id30"><div id="ms__id13"><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="color:#00cccc;"><em>image from pbs.org</em><br /></span></span><div id="ms__id11">Most of us have never seen or smelled , nor will we ever see or smell authentic animal Ambergris . Long considered one of the most valuable commodities , and long misunderstood , ambergris comes from the stomach of the endangered male sperm whale . <a href="http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/spermwhales/assets/images/wq-head.gif"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 209px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 148px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.pbs.org/wnet/nature/spermwhales/assets/images/wq-head.gif" /></a>The whale dines on tons of cuttlefish , and the undigested parts ( the " beaks " ) form a mass in the stomach and are eventually regurgitated into the sea . These large masses float on the sea , sometimes eventually washing up on the shore . The massive male sperm whale can weigh up to 40 tons and over 1/3 of it's body is the head and brain , a huge communications center . The whale communicates by series of clicks , a very sophisticated language which researches are only now appreciating . That this wonderful animal was hunted and killed almost to extinction is devastating to think about , so let us kindly protect this intelligent species and pray for their survival .</div><br /><a href="http://www.ambergris.co.nz/images/ambergris_49.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 239px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 161px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.ambergris.co.nz/images/ambergris_49.jpg" /></a>How was it ever discovered that this disgusting sounding substance could add such beauty to perfume ? Discovered by sailors originally , these large floating masses can retain their scent for centuries . The scent is salty , earthy , musty and rosy . It is said even a small amount will cling to textiles , remaining through countless washings and becoming sweeter over time . Ambergris is soluble in alcohol and it's aroma is destoyed by high heat . Historically it was tinctured for use in perfumery .</div><div id="ms__id14">Ambergris contains about 100 volatile substances .</div><div id="ms__id15">Chemical constituents of ambergris include :</div><div id="ms__id16">colestinol -type sterols ( epi- coprosterine and ambreine ).</div><div id="ms__id18">In 1977 researches Mookherjee and Patel identified some of these odorants :</div><div id="ms__id19">g-homocyclogeranyl chloride( metallic ozony seawater )</div><div id="ms__id20">a-ambrinol ( mouldy-animalic-fecal )</div><div id="ms__id25">g-dihydroionone ( weak tobacco )</div><div id="ms__id24">ambroxan ( moist , creamy/soft amber with velvety effect )</div><div id="ms__id23"></div><div id="ms__id22">Ambergris is unsurpassed for it's fixative properties and long-lasting drydown with a dry earthy radiance . Synthetic ambroxan is now synthesized from sclareol , a diterpene alcohol found in , for instance , clary sage .</div><div id="ms__id27"></div><div id="ms__id26">In aromatherapy , ambergris is known as a powerful aphrodisiac , awakening the emotions .</div><div id="ms__id28"></div><div id="ms__id29"><span style="color:#ff0000;">The winner of Perfumer's Palette drawing #4 is.............dee Howe !</span></div><div id="ms__id31"><span style="color:#ff0000;">You are most loyal , Thank you . E-mail me your adress !</span></div><div id="ms__id17"></div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-36891832393804374512010-08-20T06:40:00.002-04:002010-08-20T06:48:51.291-04:00Perfumer's Palette - Sandalwood<div id="ms__id58"><span style="font-size:78%;color:#000000;">image from Tropical Rainforest Aromatics ( carving size sandalwood from Vanuatu ) </span><br /><span style="font-size:78%;"><span style="color:#000000;">Portions of this article appeared last year on my blog</span> . Though I discussed sandalwood over a year ago , </span></div><div id="ms__id59"><span style="font-size:78%;">I felt it was important to include the article here .<br /></div></span><div id="ms__id11"><span style="color:#cc6600;"><a href="http://www.sandalwood.vu/images/sandalwood-carving-logs.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 243px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 166px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.sandalwood.vu/images/sandalwood-carving-logs.jpg" /></a>Sacred , sensuous , scarce....</span> <span style="color:#996633;"></span><span style="color:#cc6600;">legendary</span> <span style="color:#cc6600;">Sandalwood has been used for centuries in perfumery . The tree must be at least 30 years old to provide oil of any quantity or quality . The trees are never felled ( except by poachers ) , but are uprooted during the rainy season . The oil is distilled from the heart wood , and the sapwood has been used for carvings of temples and deities in India and Japan . The chips and bark are used for incense . The flowers contain no scent !! The best sandalwood is considered to come from the Mysore region of India , where the government owns and controls all trees ( every branch , twig and chip is inventoried and tagged.) If on private land , the landowner recieves 75% of the proceeds . Very good sandalwood is now coming from the Tamil Nadu region of India where the trees are more mature .</span></div><span style="color:#cc6600;">Efforts have been made to cultivate the sandalwood tree , but most have failed . The tree is parasitic , and although it recieves some nutrients through photosythesis , the sandalwood tree must steal from the roots of neighboring trees and seems to refuse efforts to domesticate it . It grows when and where it wants to grow !</span><br /><br /><div id="ms__id42"><span style="color:#cc6600;">Knowing this is in very short supply is a sad fact indeed . It will be at least 30 years before the supply can be replenished . I have purchased a variety of sandalwood essential oils , absolutes and attars so that I may never be without it's soothing scent . </span></div><div id="ms__id43"><span style="color:#cc6600;">At maturity , a sandalwood tree reaches a height of about 60 feet , is about 5 feet in diameter and yeilds up to 60 kilos of essential oil , through steam distillation .</span></div><br /><br /><div id="ms__id101"><span style="color:#cc6600;">Attar is an ancient traditional method of distillation <a href="http://chestofbooks.com/health/aromatherapy/The-Volatile-Oils-Vol1/images/Fig-15.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 283px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 172px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://chestofbooks.com/health/aromatherapy/The-Volatile-Oils-Vol1/images/Fig-15.jpg" /></a>where volatile aroma materials are slow-distilled directly into sandalwood oil , thereby stabilzing their scent . One is distilled from earth ( dirt ) called Mitti Attar and is unbelieveably rich and sweet . </span><span style="color:#cc6600;">Shamama Attar is a blend of spices and woods and oud , is incredibly complex and takes hours to unfold . The Kewda Attar starts out bitter and green , the volatile Kewda Blossoms preserved beautifully in the soft rich sandalwood . </span><span style="color:#cc6600;">White sandalwood from Australia is sharper and greener , and reminds me of PG Bois Blond .</span></div><div id="ms__id260"><span style="color:#cc6600;">Creamy smooth , soft and powdery , sandalwood has no top note , but acts as a tenacious fixative . It's scent is stable on the skin for hours and blendable with almost any other aroma . Sandalwood takes pride of place in any perfumers palette . Remember to appreciate this for what it is-sacred , overharvested and in short supply for the rest of our lifetimes !</span></div><div id="ms__id38"><span style="color:#cc6600;">For more information , please read Trygve's ( Enfleurage , NYC) article <a href="http://www.enfleurage.com/ab-sandalwood.html">here</a> , and Christopher McMahon's ( White Lotus Aromatics ) article <a href="http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/fragrant/sandalwood.html">here</a> . For purchasing , may I suggest Essential Oil University <a href="http://www.essential-oils-4-health-and-beauty.com/">here</a>.</span></div><br /><br /><div id="ms__id40"><span style="color:#cc6600;"></span></div><div id="ms__id42"><span style="color:#cc6600;">Here is the chemical breakdown of Mysore Sandalwood heartwood , Santalum Album :</span><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style="color:#cc6600;"><strong>COMPOUNDS</strong> <strong>PERCENTAGES</strong></span><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">cis-alpha santalol 45.39</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">cis-beta santalol 20.54</span></strong></span></div><div id="ms__id40"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">trans alpha bergamotal 6.31</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">beta santalol 5.01</span></strong><br /></div></span><div id="ms__id87"><strong><span style="font-size:85%;color:#cc6600;">cis-nuciferol 3.83</span></strong></div><div id="ms__id89"><strong><span style="font-size:85%;color:#cc6600;">epi-beta-santalol 3.18</span></strong></div><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">trans-beta santalol 1.78</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">cis-lanceol 1.74</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">Santalol 1.53</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">beta-santalene 1.44</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">alpha-santalol .87</span></strong><br /></span><div id="ms__id90"><strong><span style="font-size:85%;color:#cc6600;">epi-beta santalene .86</span></strong></div><div id="ms__id91"><strong><span style="font-size:85%;color:#cc6600;">alpha santalene .69</span></strong></div><div id="ms__id67"><span style="font-size:85%;"><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">beta-santalic acid .32</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">ar-curcumene .26</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">trans-alpha bergamotene .16</span></strong><br /><strong><span style="color:#cc6600;">santene .14</span></strong> </span></div><div id="ms__id68"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span> </div><div id="ms__id47"><span style="font-size:85%;"></span></div><div id="ms__id45"><span style="color:#cc6600;">In aromatherapy , sandalwood supports the lymphatic and nervous system . Also used in yoga and meditation , sandalwood was believed to oxygenate the pineal gland influencing psychic ability and helping to remove negative programming from the cells .<br /></span><br />The list of fragrances containing sandalwood is long indeed , but my favorites featuring sandalwood :</div><div id="ms__id26">Pink Lotus - always and forever my Number 1 , HG , favorite fragrance of all</div><div id="ms__id28">Ligne St. Barth Santal parfum</div><div id="ms__id29">PG Bois Blond</div><div id="ms__id35">Shamama Attar , Mitti Attar ( from White Lotus )</div><div id="ms__id34">Bill Blass Couture 3</div><div id="ms__id37"><span style="color:#cc6600;">Tell me about your experience with sandalwood and be entered in PP #4 drawing . This weeks give-away drawing next <span style="color:#cc0000;">MONDAY August 23 ( make a note of it ! )</span> will include samples of some of my attars ( diluted in jojoba oil ) , St. Barth Santal parfum , some heliotrope and galbanum fragrance samples and some surprises too !</span></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-22757333188253043132010-08-18T07:46:00.000-04:002010-08-18T14:15:14.179-04:00Perfumer's Palette - Galbanum<div id="ms__id10"><a href="http://www.touregypt.net/images/touregypt/galb.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; WIDTH: 220px; FLOAT: right; HEIGHT: 282px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://www.touregypt.net/images/touregypt/galb.jpg" /></a><br /><div id="ms__id164"></div></div><p><img style="WIDTH: 45px; HEIGHT: 53px" title="Daily Drop Cap by Jessica Hische" alt="E" align="left" src="http://jhische.com/dailydropcap/E-9-cap.png" width="54" height="68" /> </p><p></p><p></p><p>lusive , unusual , complex....galbanum was revered by the Egyptians and used in perfumery and much more . Galbanum's aromatic properties made it valuable as an insect deterrent , antispasmotic for childbirth problems , and regenerative for mature skin when blended with violet leaf and rose . ( not for use on younger skin )</p><p>Galbanum is anti-viral , and although of low vibratory rate , when blended with other resins such as Frankincense , it's vibratory rate rises drastically . Galbanum is mentioned in <em>Exodus as a favorite oil of Moses ,</em> and<em> </em>was an important ingredient in the ancient Egyptian scents Metopion and Mendesian : which we can experience today through the imagination and creation of <a href="http://www.dshperfumes.com/"><span style="color:#cc33cc;">Dawn Spencer Hurwitz</span></a> .</p><p>Galbanum is native to Iran ( Lar Valley of ancient Persia ) , and still one of the few places on Earth today where it is obtainable . A member of the Ferula family of plants ( Ferula gummose ) , galbanum resinoid and galbanum essential oil present two different odor profiles . The resinoid is deeper , woodier and more resinous green and used as a fixative base note . The essential oil is intensely green , similar to green pepper and green peas , giving floral bouquets a leafy , fresh quality .</p><p>An oleo resin is obtained by injuring the bark and collecting the liquid which is exuded . The oil is then steam distilled from the resin .</p><p>Constituents :</p><p>monoterpenes , pinene ,carene , sesquiterpenols : guaiol , galbanol ; coumarines</p><p>Fragrances famously containing galbanum :</p><p>Chanel No. 19</p><p>Balmain Vent Vert</p><p>Lancome Sikkim</p><p>Parfumerie Generale Bois Blond ( a fave of mine...)</p><p></p><p></p><p></p>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4017703341820431004.post-68031674902824708192010-08-17T07:34:00.000-04:002010-08-17T07:37:13.263-04:00Perfumer's Palette - Heliotrope<div id="ms__id88"><a href="http://seemnemaailm.ee/jpg/heliotroop.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 250px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 179px; CURSOR: hand" border="0" alt="" src="http://seemnemaailm.ee/jpg/heliotroop.jpg" /></a> Distintive , divinely exquisite heliotrope...the scent is derived from the flowers immediately after picking through maceration in oil ( historically , lard ) at a very low temperature , or traditionally through enfleurage . Each batch of blossoms is left in the oil or wax for 24 hours , then another batch introduced each day for one week . The oil/wax is then permeated with sufficient fragrance . There are over 80 species , but the heliotropum peruviatum is the species used in perfumery . Easily identifiable as the cherry pie note , it is both musky and sweet , related to borage , which has a cucumber - like aroma .. <div id="ms__id12">Heliotrope is tropical , native to Peru , and was introduced into Europe about 1757 .</div><div id="ms__id13">Synthetic heliotrope ( heliotropine ) was being produced over 1oo years ago ! As a by-product of camphor distillation , a large quantity of safrol is produced , and it is this from which synthetic heliotropine is derived . One source described it being derived from White Singapore pepper , piperine , then converted to potassium piperol using lime . It seems most fragrances today use the synthetic form .</div><div id="ms__id14"></div><div id="ms__id15"></div><div id="ms__id7"></div><div id="ms__id8">Heliotrope fragrances :</div><div id="ms__id9"></div><div id="ms__id10">Etro Heliotrope</div><div id="ms__id11">Miller Harris Fleur Oriental</div><div id="ms__id18">Serge Lutens Rahat Loukhoum</div><div id="ms__id16">Guerlain Apres L'Ondee</div><div id="ms__id17">Laura Mercier Marrons Glacees</div><div id="ms__id19"></div><div id="ms__id21">Heliotrope does not seem to have any aromatherapeutic benefits , nor is it edible .</div><div id="ms__id20">I love Miller Harris Fleur Oriental , but it can become too penetrating in the heat . Do you have a heliotrope fragrance ?</div></div>waftbyCarolhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14784265823926668236noreply@blogger.com3