Perfumer's Palette - Balsams & Resins

image of Balsam of Peru from purplesage.org

alsam of Peru , Tolu Balsam , Benzoin , Tonka , Labdanum , Styrax/Storax , even the much maligned pine resin ....the family of concretes that must be captured through the use of chemical solvent extraction followed by distillation . Most of these one could broadly categorized as tree resin , though some exude naturally and others only after causing injury to the tree .

Storax/Styrax is one of these . It is the resin from the Liquidambar orientalis tree , found mainly in Turkey . The cadmium layer must be damaged before the resin is exuded from the tree . It's main odor constituant is cinnamic acid esthers , which are often separated out . Liquidambar styracea is native to Honduras , and is called copal .

Styrax is very aromatic and sweet , opaque greyish color , containing a high percentage of water , which separates upon standing . Then the resin is dissolved inalcohol , filtered and dried into " tears " .

Balsam of Peru is also obtained through damaging the tree Myroxylon Percirae native to El Salvador , but the bark of the tree must be scorched before it exudes the resin . Balsam of Peru is very thick , reddish brown , sweet and penetrating , containing cinnamic acid , benzoic acid , peruviol . Commonly used in oriental type fragrances , it is an excellent fixative .

Tolu Balsam is collected from the tree Myroxilon Tolufera , native to Columbia and Venezuela , by making incisions in the bark . Similar to Peru balsam , both having a vanilla- like odor and used by native tribes as cough superssant and for their antiseptic , antibacterial properties . Clinical research has shown them to be effective in tissue regeneration and inhibiting tuberculosis .

Copaiba , ( Copaifera officinalis )also a tree resin , is native to the Amazon region . The oleoresin collects in the tree and is also harvested by making incisions in the bark , each tree producing about 10 gallons annually . Initially it is clear , thin and colorless but thickens and darkens after contact with the air . Used traditionally in Peruvian medicine to reduce inflammation , stomach ulcers and sore throat , Copaiba was listed in the U.S. Pharmacoea from 1820 -1910 as disinfectant , diuretic , anti-inflammmatory with stimulant properties . ( highest known natural source of caryophyllene , a strong anti-inflammatory ). Copaiba is made up of over 50% sequesterpenes , diterpenes and terpenic acids , several found only in copaiba !

Tonka , from the Cumaru Tree native to tropical rainforests of northern South America , contain coumarin in the bark and seed pods . The bark is used medicinally in the form of a decoction , while the seeds are fermented . After drying , the coumarin crystals form on the seeds , making them appear frosted . Known for it's vanilla - like odor , coumarin is also used as an anti-coagulant ( blood thinner ).

Benzoin is the resin of the Styrax benzoin tree , predominately ocurring in Indonesia and India .

Previously , I discussed Labdanum , one of my favorite perfume materials of all ! You can read exhaustively about labdanum here .

This is by no means an exhaustive list , but gives an idea of the resinous materials available to the perfumer today !! Do you have a favorite ? Do you wear them only in cooler weather , or anytime ?

my faves are

Guerlain Bois d'Armenie

La Via del Profumo Mecca Balsam

Donna Karan Labdanum

Agraria Balsam

I've really been wanting to get ahold of Parfumerie generale Aomassai...today I am wearing vintage Lubin Nuit de Longchamp , containing tolu and peruvian balsams and labdanum . Yummmm....!

The WINNER of the drawing is DIANA !!

E-mail me with your adress !

Thanks everyone for participating...there will be another drawing next Monday so keep trying .

" ....guard closely , as you would a priceless friend , the perfume that reminds you of your lovliest moments..."
-R. Barbas , past President of Jean Patou