Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Perfumer's Palette - Neroli

Neroli is the blossom of the bitter orange tree ( Citrus aurantium , C. bigaradia , C. vulgaris .) Though used in lighter colognes because of it's bouyant , fresh nature , Neroli is also very rich and expansive , and was traditionally used in parfum to add it's paradoxical personality and elegance to stronger floral extraits . Divinely sweet and intoxicating , neroli is known for the high , refreshing note it imparts
The blossoms must be harvested at exactly the right time - when the buds first open , and must be picked by hand . If too early , the unopened buds impart too green/bitter an odor to the oil . If too late , decaying blossoms impart off / decaying notes to the oil . The blossoms also do not travel well , and must be distilled immediately at a location close to the orchards .
The blossoms are steam distilled , one ton of blossoms producing about one quart of pure essential oil .
Later in the fall , these same trees are pruned , the leaves distilled to obtain petit-grain oil . The leading prucers of Neroli today are France , Italy and Tunisia .
In aromatherapy , neroli is considered an aphrodisiac , nourishes feelings of self acceptance , relieving anxiety and stress . Neroli is uplifting , even a drop having a profound effect on the soul .
Neroli essential oil is volatile , has a short shelf life and must be kept in a cool , dark place and used quickly after distillation .

" There are those women who hide behind a powerful , tenacious perfume ; there are those who are more inspired , more natural , more original if you will , who look for a delicate scent , a nuance that underlines the personality in a elegant fashion . "
- Robert Ricci ( President of Nina Ricci )

Neroli fragrances :

Maitre Parfumeur Jardin du Neroli

Acqua di Parma Colonia Intensa

Robert Piguet Futur

Dyptique L'Eau d'Neroli

Today I am wearing Claudie Pierlot Eau de Pierlot , which is an intoxicating neroli/orange blossom cologne . I am probably the only place in the U.S. that carries it !

( in my boutique , Niche Place )


Unknown said...

I'm wearing Caron's Montaigne. It's supposed to contain "bitter orange" - would that be neroli or petit grain? I'm thinking neroli because it deos a light floral lift to it.

waftbyCarol said...

In Montaigne I would say it is the actual fruit distillation , boosted by aldehydes and jasmine !

Rappleyea said...

You've been busy and I've gotten behind! Patchouli, oakmoss and neroli - probably my top three favorite perfume notes (along with jasmine). Interestingly enough, I don't particularly care for the sweeter orange blossom, but I love neroli. My personal favorite neroli scent (although now I'm dying to try the Pierlot) is Guerlain's Philtre d'Amour.

Great articles on these ingredients! Thanks, Carol.

waftbyCarol said...

OOH , I think I have a sample of Philtre d'Amour around here , I need to sniff that again . I remember it as being very uplifting !! Almost as cheerful as lemon drops ...

ggs said...

A new neroli for your list is Penhaligon's Orange Blossom from their Anthology series, by Bertrand Duchaufour. It's getting lots o'praise on the blogosphere, and the hot weather prompted me to cave and pick up a bottle. Very nice but a little more white floral than I usually choose.
I like DSH's The Color Orange-- more fresh orange-- less floral ;)